Important: please be sure to include your 17 digit VIN Number so that we can send you the factory Toyota painted handle that is an exact match to your car.
Don't see your color in the picture? No worries! We have all 26 Toyota Factory colors in Stock!
The Original Problem
Do you have a 2005-2010 Scion tC? Did you go to open the back hatch and when you grabbed the handle it broke right off?
The original handles installed in these cars had a major problem. The handle anchors are very poor quality, and if you pull too hard it breaks right off in your hand. It's not just your car, many Scion tC's manufactured in these years had the same problem.
We are selling a completely brand new Genuine Toyota handle. The new handle is the newest version Which is the newest design, and has been updated from the original that was installed at your car from the factory.
- Includes Handle, painted rear garnish, cabling for handle and Scion emblem.
- Includes all hardware pre-installed on the garnish. Does not include the 4 interior attachment nuts, you will re-use your old ones.
- Does Not Include License Plate Lights.
- Installs easily
- Includes Scion Emblem
- Painted by Toyota to match your cars exterior perfectly.
- Comes sealed in Genuine Toyota Packaging.
- Factory Fresh Direct From Toyota
There are 2 designs to this handle. The old defective design, and the new improved design. Many Internet Sellers are still selling the old design because it is cheaper and they can make more profit. If you get the old design you will just have the same problem again. We only sell the new design handles.
- First things first, removing the cover of the inside of the hatch. You have to pop off the light gray plastic liner first to get to all the screws/fasteners off of the darker main piece. This is in three sections that are loosely connected together. You should be able to pry it off pretty easily. Once that is off there are 2 screws and 2 fasteners you need to remove.
- The fasteners are a PAIN to get out. If you have a thin Flathead screwdriver you'll want to use that to wrench them out. They're made of plastic and flex a lot so it's hard to get them out. You'll need to try to stay calm or you may break them in a fit of rage. I'd also recommend either coating the screwdriver's shaft in something rubber or cloth or it'll scratch up the paint (although this is covered for the most part by the light gray plastic). Be Very Careful not to scratch anything. The screws come out easy enough, just be sure not to go overboard with it because there is enough resistance to strip the heads a bit if you aren't careful.
- Next is pulling the dark plastic off. The handles on the plastic help to pry it off a bit. If you need help grab a plastic wedge of some sort and shove it in between the metal frame and the plastic to help pry it apart. Makes a lot of loud popping noises. Just keep an eye out that it doesn't whack you in the head when you're pulling it off, and try to brace the metal frame with one hand so you aren't just pulling the gate closed on yourself.
- Unscrew the four nuts. If your Socket wrench isn't long enough you may have to fit a 10mm attachment onto the nuts first and then kind of hover the socket extender in the attachment and wrench it off that way until the screw post is short enough to lock the attachment and extender together properly for the rest of the way. Pay close attention while unscrewing them so that you don't drop the nut inside the metal frame of the door. Once you got those off, you can pull the garnish off from the outside but it won't come off all the way. You have to push the little rubber cup holding the hatch handle button wiring out of the metal frame or it'll dangle down and possibly scratch up the outside of your hatch, so be careful. Make sure you unhook the wiring harness beforehand as well.
- Now take out your nice new hatch garnish, feed the wiring harness through the large circled hole and squeeze the rubber cup into place there. Then feed the bolts through the holes in the metal, taking care to maneuver the wiring out of the way so the lights fit into the recesses of the garnish. Keep an eye on the rubber seal around the garnish edges so it doesn't fold over or get pushed out of the way while you're putting it into place. You'll probably want to hold the garnish in place with one hand while ducking under the hatch and carefully screwing the nuts back onto the bolts inside (loosely). Get all the nuts on before trying to tighten them down so you can make sure the garnish is seated right. Also make sure you don't over tighten the nuts.
- These instructions are incredibly detailed, and make it sound a lot harder than it actually is. For most people with a good mechanical aptitude the job should take less than an hour.
Portions of these instructions were written by Skeorx13 of ScionLife.